Bill and Linda’s Southwest Ride April 1-8, 2006                             Written by Linda Androws

Day 1

   Bill and I departed Livermore at 4:45am for my first tour of the Southwest. We headed down Hwy 5 to Tehachapi.   A light mist fell for about 1/2 hour and the remainder of the trip was dry save a 1/2 hour of light rain in the San Bernardino Mountains . The temperature there was a chilly 39 °.  

   Our first stop was Joshua Tree National Park , CA .   The trees look prehistoric but what really impressed me where the huge buff colored rocks.   This is a great place for kids or adults who like climbing on big rocks! The weather was cool with a beautiful, brilliant blue sky, great for hiking or climbing.  We had a late dinner in Chandler, AZ and fell into bed at 10pm.   Miles for the day 783.

Joshua Tree

Linda and Bill- Joshua Tree

      
Bill-Saguaro

Linda –Saguaro

Ocotillo Cactus bloom

  Day 2

   We departed Chandler , NM at sunrise 6:45 and made our way to Casa Grande Ruins, NM.   Casa Grande is an ancient archeological site.   The big adobe structure was impressive and beautiful.   We again saw many Saguaro cacti.   I was also impressed with Palo Verde trees whose bark is a beautiful green with horizontal striations.   Color seems to be a theme.   The weather was perfect, warm and sunny!

   Second stop...Saguaro NP, AZ. (pronounced Sa-war-o) The Saguaro where immense and there must be millions of them over the almost 58, 000 acres expanse!   But, again, something else impressed me more then the main attraction cactus...the ocotillo with their pendulous bright orange flowers blooming on long green spiky branches, was what really captured my attention.   I guess the insignificant blooming plants really affected me!  

   Our 4 th stop was Tumacacori National Historic Park , AZ a ruin of a Jesuit mission and the first of the mission trail.   We had a delicious, free tortilla and beans hand made on the site by a sweet old Mexican woman.   She and her husband of 70 years have been there on site every day for 25 years making tortillas!   She spoke no English but we managed to communicate with my very poor Spanish and some help from her husband.   Her niece is buried in the mission cemetery, an infant who died at 2 yrs. in the early 1900’s.   According to the docent, the religious who inhabited the mission had a “good” relationship with the local Indian population.   Adobe ruins of a food storage building, the big church with some intact frescos, cistern, priest’s quarters and Indian dwellings were interesting.   There was a pretty little modern garden and museum.  

Our 5 th stop was Coronado National Monument . The road in was a nice twisty, tree lined area.   There is not much there, some chain armor and helmet, camp grounds, hiking trails and a short video clip on Conquistadores conquest of the Indian tribes.  

Heading on down the road to Tombstone , AZ , we passed through the town of Bisbee ...now this is a town I would love to go back to and spend a day or two exploring!   It is a beautiful little town built on a mountain side, surrounded by a huge copper mine.   Late 19th century homes abound in this darling town, also nice restaurants, coffee shops, stores, B&B’s and hotels. By the time we made it to Tombstone the place was closed.   We didn’t get to see the OK Corral.   We traveled on to Willcox or our night’s rest.    Miles for the day 415.

Casa Grande

Casa Grande

Tumacacori Mission

Tumacacori

 
Tumacacori Church Fresco                                  Bill and Linda- Tumacacori

Bill- Coronado

Day 3

   Left Wil lcox at 6:45am traveling to White Sands National Monument , NM .   What a boring, straight road!    The weather was a nice 75 ° but hazy.   White Sands was like being on another planet!   The sand is stark white, blindingly glaring.   The huge sand dunes make you feel as if you where in the middle of the Sahara .   Amongst the dunes nothing appears to be visible but white sand for hundreds of miles.   Of course this isn’t so.   The intensity of the sun on the sand made the temperature nicely warm.   We had a relaxed lunch at one of picnic tables covered with a sun canopy.   People in the park were sliding down the dunes with snow saucers, while others were hiking up the dunes.   We found out that many movies have been filmed there including Star Wars.

   On to El Paso and Chamizal National Monument for a tour and video.   We were the only guests!   It is a monument commemorating the 1963 milestone in diplomatic relations between the US and Mexico .   El Paso may have some nice places but we didn’t see any.   It is a city of over 1/2 million population incredibly crowded, dry, windy, dusty and dirty with congested traffic.  

   Back on the highway for 120 miles more of boring scenery to Van Horn, Texas for dinner at John Madden’s favorite Mexican restaurant- Chuy’s.   It was good but Bill and I don’t now why Madden thinks it the best.   Miles for the day 495.  

White Sands

Lunch at White Sands

Chamizal , El Paso

Day 4

   We left Van Horn at 7:45 am for Fort Davis , which opens for tours at 9am .    We toured the fort buildings for about 1 1/2 hours, taking in the commander’s house, cook’s kitchen and living quarters, barracks, medical building with horrific looking medical and dental tools...Glad we didn’t live during that era!   The weather this day was warm and beautiful.

   We left Fort Davis for the 2 hour ride to Big Bend .   On the way to Big Bend , we did take a really nice road through Antelope Valley .   We saw lots of Antelope but they were all quite a way off.   We didn’t stop for any photos.   We took a nice twisty road. Within the course of a few miles, we saw Javelina (wild pigs), deer, cows, a calf and rabbits all on the road.   We slowed for safety but the animals were all too fast to get a good photo.   The momma cows didn’t look friendly.    This was a nice area with trees, some green grass and a great road.

 The Big Bend area is a very hot, dry and barren park.   We stopped at the two park stations long enough for the park stamp, potty, water and a snack.   This was my least favorite park on the tour.

   The Rio Grande River was our next destination.   We climbed an overlook to see the river.   This small mountain’s rocky trail must have been originally carved out by mountain goats or burros!   The steep incline, First Gear pants (I foolishly left on), very high 1.5 mile switchback trail and the 95 ° heat took its toll on me. I gave up before reaching the top.   Bill went ahead but never saw the river from the overlook, just green bushes.   We made our way down the trail and walked all of 1/2 a block around a bend to view the Rio Grande River !   I previously knew this...but incase you don’t know, the Rio Grande is not so “ grande”!   Hehehe   It is grande because it is so long.   It did look cool and refreshing, a beautiful shade of green, remarkably clear and clean.

   We left the Rio Grande at 2:30 and went on to Carlsbad , arriving at a bout 7:15pm . Dinner at Chili’s Restaurant and a nice shower ended our day.   Miles for the day 529.

Fort Davis Stable

Fort Davis

Rio Grande-Hike to Overlook

Rio Grande- Overlook

Bill-Rio Grande

Rio Grande

     Day 5

   Carlsbad Caverns , NM ...the highlight of the trip so far!! We were on the road at 7:30 for the 1/2 hour ride to the caverns.   We toured for a total of 5 hours-first on our own for 1 1/2 hours,    the 2 hour guided tour of the King’s Palace and lastly, the Big Room self-guided tour.   The caves are fantastic, beautiful and awesome.   They feel alive!   The courage of Jim White, the first person to explore the caves in 1889, when he was just 16 years old is remarkable.   He was a true adventurer, entering a pitch black cave with nothing more than a candle-lit lantern and rope, not knowing what he would encounter.   He explored miles of the caves, naming formations as a means of remembering his way out.   We didn’t get to see any bats, as they are not there this time of year but the smell of guano was strong! If you haven’t had the opportunity, I highly recommend seeing Carlsbad Caverns .   The stalactites, stalagmites, draperies, columns and other formations are awe inspiring, eerie, beautiful, ancient....You have to see it to appreciate it; photos do not capture it adequately.

   We left Carlsbad at 1pm with 40-50 mph winds, blowing dust, light drops of rain and billowing black clouds.   It was hot and dry enough the rain evaporated on the way down.   Guadalupe Mountains NP was the second destination of the day.   We stopped at both stations, watched a short video and got the parks book stamp.   We checked with a ranger about gas stations along the route and headed for Deming , NM . Our planned fuel stop was no longer operating and there were no gas stations anywhere along the highway!   The wind was pretty brutal, buffeting and headwinds sucked up the fuel leaving us wondering at one point if we would make it to the gas station in El Paso . Bill held the speed to 65.   At 4:30pm we made it to the first station outside of El Paso with just drops to spare.   We arrived in Deming at 6:30pm .   The wind was still pretty fierce.   The gal at the hotel desk told us that the highway had been closed earlier and just reopened due to wind, a big dust storm and accidents! We were doubly lucky today!   Mexican dinner at La Fonda in Deming was very good.   We closed the place.   Miles for the day 292.

Carlsbad Caverns

Linda at mouth of Carlsbad

Column

Bill- Carlsbad

 
Lion’s Tail Stalactites

Whale’s Mouth Formation

Day 6

   Left Deming at 7am for Fort Bowie NP.   Our GPS took us on an incorrect route down dirt roads which were no where near Fort Bowie .   After about 1/2 hour we got back on the highway and the correct road to the park, arriving there at 10am .   This national park took some effort to visit as you must walk the 1 1/2 miles in to the fort and park station.   The rangers use horses to get to the station!   The trail is relatively flat, the climb gentle, the scenery was very nice woodland, creek beds, a late 19th century cemetery.   Along the way there is a natural spring that was used by Geronimo and the Chiricahua Apaches.   This fort was instrumental in the surrender of Geronimo in 1886 and the banishment of the Chiricahua from the region.   There are probably 25 ruins of old fort buildings, storehouses, barracks and homes.   We made the return hike to the parking lot a little more interesting by taking a trail to an outlook, which gives one a great 360°   view of the fort and mountains surrounding the area.   The 1/4 mile climb up was invigorating.   The hike and walk around the ruins took us from 10am until 12:30 .  

   The strength and determination of the soldiers and settlers to the west is remarkable.   I wonder if any of us would have the stamina to endure the harshness of the desert and mountains.   The plight of the Indians really touched me.   They truly lost everything during this era.   Disease and cruelty decimated their populations.   It was shameful.

   Chiricahua National Monument , AZ was the next stop.   We rode the 8 miles of beautiful, twisty road into the park.   The fantastic rock formations looked like stacked bolder columns covered with varying shades of green lichen.   The many pine trees, green bushes and green formations made the park seem lush after all the desert cacti, creosote, yucca and dried up vegetation of the past days. The temperature was a cool 50°.   This is definitely a great place to see.

  We rode 3 hours on past Tucson and Phoenix to Black Canyon City , AZ.   We had a great dinner at a little Amish restaurant across the street from the Mountain Breeze Motel, where we stayed.

The motel looked nice outside but the rooms were a little outdated ( think 1960’s).   The walls where paper thin and the bed was lumpy and sagged to the middle.   Bill slept well but I heard every noise, car, cough, TV...not a good night’s sleep for me.   But it was clean and cheap!!            

Miles for the day 474.

Bill- Start of the hike in.

Fort Bowie Ruins

Chiricahua stacked rocks

Bill-Chiricahua lookout

Chiricahua rocks

   
Chiricahua-Rocks and Lichen

Chiricahua

Day 7

   We left Black Canyon City at 7am , heading toward Zion NP, Utah .   It was cold this morning, 30° between Black Canyon City and Verde Valley .   Frozen puddles and little creeks lined the road, with snow on slopes and on the peaks.   Verde Valley is a lovely area of farm land, grain fields and orchards.   We saw a sign for Sunset Crater Volcano NP and decided to take a detour off our route and check it out.   The park station wasn’t open, so we rode the 18 miles through the park to Wupatki National Monument, ruins of a really cool Pueblo village built by the Hopi in the 1100’s, just 38 years after the volcanic eruption.    The Pueblo ruin was beautiful, especially so with the Painted Desert in the distance.   The volcanic flow, cinder cones and lava fields were incredible.   Trees and shrubs have begun to reclaim some of the areas. We were glad that we took the time to see this park.

   On our way to Zion , we crossed over a section of the Grand Canyon by way Navajo Bridge .    I hadn’t expected to see this.   It was another surprising great view, this time of the Colorado River .   We stopped for a snack and a few photos before continuing on or way to Zion NP, Utah

    Zion was another highlight of the trip!     Zion comes “close” to Yosemite for its natural beauty, huge rocks, cliffs, arches, trees, vegetation and small stream.   The park facility, education center, shuttles and accommodations are great.   Since we arrived late in the day, we immediately got on one of the park shuttles that take guests to the end of the canyon.   This is the only way to get to the end other than walking.   No cars are allowed past the visitor’s center parking lots.   The round trip on the shuttle takes 1 1/2 hours if you don’t get off at any of the stops.   This is a park you could explore for at least a couple of days.

  We left Zion at 5pm for Cedar City arriving at about 7 pm .   We both had headaches.   I had another lousy night with young girls next door making a racket until about 2pm .   I should have called the front desk.   Guess what?   Bill slept like a baby!   Miles for the day 449.

Wupatki Pueblo Ruins

Wupatki Pueblo Ruins up close

Wupatki Pueblo Ruins trail

Zion - riding in

 
Zion in the canyon                                                          Bill-Zion

Zion-back of the canyon

Zion-Three Amigos

Zion-creek and cliffs

Day 8

   6:30 am we are on the road for Cedar Breaks and Bryce NP’s in Utah .   The weather was very crisp!   Bryce was COLD.   At 1000’ at the summit the temperature was 28°.   Snow covered all the ground, a few patches of the road were a little icy and Bill took care passing over these areas.   The snow glistened with the crystals of ice from the intense sun.   The lakes were all still frozen over and several of the roads to other parts of the park were unplowed and closed.   We didn’t get to see the red rock of Bryce but the scenery was beautiful.   Thanks to the Gerbing I was toasty warm.   We stopped at a couple of overlooks for pictures but it was pretty windy and cold when unplugged from heat.   It looked like another great place to hike.   We spent a couple of hours riding in and back out the way we came, then headed for Bryce.  

   Bryce was a really great park!  Erosion from frost-wedging and rainwater have shaped the limestone into bizarre shapes- spires called “hoodoos.”   The bright pinkish-red rocks are capped with white rock.   Some of the formations resemble figures or animals…One more park that would be great for hiking.

Cedar Breaks-snow

Cedar Breaks

 
Linda-Bryce outlook

Bryce-wow!

Bryce-You could hike down into area

Bryce - Some areas were still closed to hiking

Bryce 9115’ and cold

Bryce arch

Bryce Hoodoo’s

   We were both feeling tired and ready for home. I wanted to make a stop to see a dear friend in Las Vegas who had surgery earlier in the week.   We headed for Las Vegas planning on staying the night but my friend was not looking too chipper.   We visited for a couple of hours and at 6pm headed out toward home.   We thought we would ride a few hours and find a room for the night.   Bill jokingly said we would ride until we were tired or I said I’d had enough!   I took it as a challenge and said, “Let’s ride all the way!”   I think he didn’t believe me but we made it home at 2 am!   I was falling asleep on the bike for the last 4 hours...a little disconcerting!   Bill was wide awake and feeling good.   It must have been the two previous nights of good sleep that he got and I missed!   Miles for the day 925!!!   Just 75 more and we could have had a Saddle Sore!   Total miles 4360!

  It was a very memorable 8 days.   I’m so glad we had the opportunity to do it.   I loved all of the parks we visited.   Each had something educational, beautiful, interesting, marvelous, mysterious or astounding to offer.    Each was unique.   I’ve included a list of the places we visited or rode through on the last page...just in case you want to research and plan a ride for yourselves!  

BTW We stayed at Super 8 Motels during the trip.   The prices were good, the rooms clean and most of the motels newer.

Thanks to my guy for taking me and sharing some of his favorite sights with me!   I can’t wait for our next adventures!    Hum-m-m-m, I wonder what he has planned next?!